Jean Paul Gaultier
Get Jean Paul Gaultier essential facts below. View Videos or join the Jean Paul Gaultier discussion. Add Jean Paul Gaultier to your PopFlock.com topic list for future reference or share this resource on social media.
Jean Paul Gaultier

Jean Paul Gaultier
Jean-Paul Gaultier.jpg
Gaultier in 2006
Born (1952-04-24) 24 April 1952 (age 68)[1]
NationalityFrench
Label(s)
  • Jean Paul Gaultier
  • Hermès (2003–2010)
Francis Menuge (from 1975; died 1990)[2]
Relatives
  • Richard Bernard Gauthier
  • Craig Hatton
Websitejeanpaulgaultier.com

Jean Paul Gaultier[a] (French: [ p?l ?otje]; born 24 April 1952)[1] is a French haute couture and prêt-à-porter fashion designer. He is described as an "enfant terrible" of the fashion industry, and is known for his unconventional designs with motifs including corsets, marinières, and tin cans. Gaultier founded his eponymous fashion label in 1982, and expanded with a line of fragrances in 1993. He was the creative director for French luxury house Hermès from 2003 to 2010, and retired following his 50th-anniversary haute couture show during Paris Fashion Week in January 2020.[3]

Aside from his work in the fashion industry, Gaultier co-presented the first seven series of the television series Eurotrash with Antoine de Caunes from 1993–1997.

Biography

Early life

Gaultier grew up in a suburb of Paris. His mother was a clerk and his father an accountant. It was his maternal grandmother, Marie Garage, who introduced him to the world of fashion.[4]

He never received formal training as a designer. Instead, he began to send sketches to famous couture stylists at an early age. Pierre Cardin was impressed by his talent and hired him as an assistant in 1970.[5] Then he worked with Jacques Esterel in 1971 and Jean Patou later that year again worked for Cardin managing the Pierre Cardin boutique in Manila for a year until 1974.[4] Despite Gaultier's youth, Cardin sent him to Manilla to manage the local office. Imelda Marcos was one of his clients. He found himself on a "no leave" list and had to pretend to have a family emergency in order to leave. He never returned. [6]

Fashion career

Gaultier's first individual collection was released in 1976.[5] Although most people found his designs decadent at the time, fashion editors, notably Melka Tréanton of Elle, Claude Brouet and Catherine Lardeur of French Marie Claire, were impressed by his creativity and mastery of tailoring, and later launched his career.[7][8][9][10][11] In 1980, he designed women's dresses out of plastic trash bags.[12] Gaultier founded his eponymous fashion label in 1982.[13] His 1983 collection "Boy Toy" relaunched the marinière for men.[14] His garments were on sale at Bergdorf Goodman in New York as soon as 1984, and already lauded by Dawn Mello and Polly Allen Mellen. The term "Gaultiered" was coined to describe the classic pieces that were reinterpreted by the designer. [13] During the 1984 Fall London and Paris shows, Jean Paul Gaultier introduced his line of skirts for men (actually kilts), a breakthrough in men's fashion that stirred a bit of controversy.[15] In 1984 he also introduced the iconic women's corset with cone bra.[16] Gaultier has also worked in close collaboration with Wolford Hosiery.[17][18]

By 1985, his company made $50 million in sales worldwide.[19] In the 1985 movie Desperately Seeking Susan, Madonna wore a skirt with men's suspenders she had bought from Gaultier.[20] Besides his ready-to-wear collection, in 1988 Gaultier expanded his brand to include the label Junior Gaultier, a lower-priced line of products.[21] The Junior Gaultier outfit was selected by Jeff Banks as the Dress of the Year.[22] In 1988, he also recorded the music video How to do that.[23] At the end of the 1980s he invented a new look for the French accordionist Yvette Horner which relaunched her career.[24] In 1990, he designed Madonna's clothes for her Blond Ambition World Tour.[21][25]

At the end of the 1980s, Gaultier suffered some personal losses, and in 1990 his boyfriend and business partner, Francis Menuge, died of AIDS-related causes.[26][21] It is also around that time that he decided to tone down his showmanship and started to plan more intimate events.[20]

Gaultier launched a line of fragrances (Classique) in 1993.[21] The Junior Gaultier label was replaced in 1994 with JPG by Gaultier, a unisex collection that followed the designer's idea of fluidity of the sexes. Gaultier Jean's, a similar line consisting mainly of denim and more simply styled garments with a heavy street influence, followed in 1992, which was then replaced with Jean's Paul Gaultier from 2004 to 2008. Junior Gaultier's name was reused in 2009 for the launching of the child's wear, to be completed with a Baby Line in 2011.

In 1998, Jean Paul Gaultier's company generated EUR12.9 million ($13.2 million) in sales. In 1999, Hermès acquired 35% of Gaultier's label for 150 million francs ($23 million). Jean Paul Gaultier owned 93% of his company prior to this deal.[27][28] In 2002, Gaultier's label opened its first fully-fledged stand-alone store.[29] Then, from 2003 to 2010, Gaultier was the creative director of Hermès[30] where he succeeded Martin Margiela.[31] Hermès later increased its stake in Jean Paul Gaultier to 45%.[30] By 2008, 40 Jean Paul Gaultier stores opened worldwide.[29]


He sponsored the 2003-04 exhibit in the Costume Institute of New York's Metropolitan Museum of Art entitled "Braveheart: Men in Skirts", which showed designs by Dries van Noten, Vivienne Westwood, and Rudi Gernreich in addition to Gaultier's in order to examine "designers and individuals who have appropriated the skirt as a means of injecting novelty into male fashion, as a means of transgressing moral and social codes, and as a means of redefining an ideal masculinity."[32][33] He also designed some furniture for the French furniture brand Roche Bobois[34] and an Evian bottle in 2008.[35] Gaultier's spring 2009 couture was influenced by the visual style of singer Klaus Nomi,[36] and he used Nomi's recording of "Cold Song" in his runway show.[37]

In 2011, the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts in collaboration with the Maison Jean Paul Gaultier organized a retrospective exhibit, "The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk."[38] That exhibit is on tour with venues at the Swedish Centre for Architecture and Design (Arkitektur- och designcentrum, ArkDes) in Stockholm,[5] the Brooklyn Museum in New York City,[39] the Barbican Centre in London,[40] the National Gallery of Victoria in Melbourne,[41] and the Grand Palais in Paris. The exhibition in Paris, which took place from April to August 2015, was the subject of a documentary called Jean Paul Gaultier at the Grand Palais aired exclusively on Eurochannel.[42] In 2012, he participated in the Cali ExpoShow in Cali (Colombia), showing his extensive collection of perfumes and all classic clothes.[43]

Up until 2014, he designed for three collections: his own couture and ready-to-wear lines, for both men and women. At the spring/summer 2015 show he announced that he was closing the ready-to-wear labels to focus on haute couture.[44] In 2016, he designed more than 500 costumes for the revue THE ONE Grand Show at Friedrichstadt-Palast Berlin.

In 2018, he staged a cabaret show that was loosely based on his life called "Fashion Freak Show" which took place at the Folies Bergere theater in Paris.[45] In 2019, Gaultier collaborated with the New York streetwear brand Supreme.

He announced on January 17, 2020 that his next Paris haute couture fashion show would be his last and that he was retiring from the runway.[45]

Music and TV career

Gaultier with Conchita Wurst, 2014

In 1988, Gaultier released a dance single titled "How To Do That" on Fontana Records, from which came one of the first ever "single title" remix albums, Aow Tou Dou Zat, on Mercury Records.[46] The album includes mixes by Norman Cook, J. J. Jeczalik, George Shilling, Mark Saunders, Latin Rascals, David Dorrell, Tim Atkins, Carl Atkins, and Kurtis Mantronik. It was co-written and produced by Tony Mansfield, and video directed by Jean-Baptiste Mondino.[47] The album also featured a collaboration with accordion player Yvette Horner.

Gaultier is known as Eurovision enthusiast, and since 1991, he's dressed several of France's entrants. In Eurovision Song Contest 2006, he dressed Greek entrant Anna Vissi, where she performed in homesoil. He commented the final of Eurovision Song Contest 2008 with Julien Lepers on France Télévisions.[48] He designed the dress that Anggun wore as she represented France during the grand-finals of the Eurovision Song Contest 2012 held in Baku, Azerbaijan.[49] In Eurovision Song Contest 2013 he dressed the host Petra Mede.[50]

Starting in 1993, he co-hosted the Channel 4 programme Eurotrash with Antoine de Caunes. Gaultier hosted the show until 1997.[51]

In 2012, he was named as a member of the Jury for the Main Competition at the 2012 Cannes Film Festival.[52] This was the first time a fashion designer was called to sit on a jury at the festival.[53]

Products

Classique fragrance
Ultra Male fragrance
A bottle of the women's fragrance Classique (left) and a bottle of the men's fragrance Ultra Male (right)
  • Fashion labels:
    • Jean Paul Gaultier
    • Gaultier PARIS (couture collection)
    • former JEAN'S Paul Gaultier
    • former Eyewear Jean Paul Gaultier
    • former Jean Paul Gaultier Argent.
  • Women's fragrance lines:
    • Classique (1993): List of flanker fragrances
    • Fragile (2000): Fragile Eau de Toilette (2001)
    • Ma Dame (2008): Ma Dame Eau Fraiche (2009); Ma Dame Rose 'n Roll (2009); Ma Dame Eau de Parfum (2010); Ma Dame Eau Fraiche Summer 2010; Ma Dame It (2011)
    • Scandal (2017): Scandal by Night (2018); Scandal a Paris (2019); So Scandal! (2020)
  • Unisex fragrance lines:
    • Gaultier² (2005): Gaultier² Eau d'Amour (2008)

The fragrance house includes women's, men's, and unisex fragrances; a number of flanker fragrances have been released for each line.[54] Jean Paul Gaultier fragrances have been licensed by Puig since 1 January 2016, and were previously licensed by Shiseido subsidiary Beauté Prestige International from 1991 through 31 December 2015. The BPI license was originally negotiated through 30 June 2016;[55] however, Puig acquired the license for $79.2 million and paid $22.6 million for the early termination of the license.[56] With this purchase, Puig now holds control of both the fashion and fragrance divisions of the Jean Paul Gaultier brand.[57] The 1993 women's oriental floral Classique and the 1995 men's oriental fougere Le Male have been described by the brand as "flagship" products that "represent all the Jean Paul Gaultier values".[58] Le Male was the top-selling men's fragrance in the European Union in 2012, and holds a strong market position in Australia and the United States.[59]

As of May 2020, the Classique,[60] Le Male,[61] and Scandal lines are in production.[62]

Style

Description

Jean Paul Gaultier's characteristic irreverent style dating from 1981 has led to his being known as the enfant terrible of French fashion.

Many of Gaultier's subsequent collections have been based on street wear, focusing on popular culture, whereas others, particularly his haute couture collections, are very formal, yet at the same time unusual and playful.[63] Jean Paul Gaultier says he is inspired by the baby boomers' TV culture,[19] and the street culture where audacity sometimes triggers new trends.[15] His main inspirations are the French popular culture, the mixing of types and genders, sexual fetishism and futurist designs.[64]

The advent of his haute couture line brought him massive success in 1997. Through this collection, he was able to freely express the scope and range of his aesthetic, drawing inspiration from radically divergent cultures, from Imperial India to Hasidic Judaism.

Gaultier caused shock by using unconventional models for his exhibitions, like older men and full-figured women, pierced and heavily tattooed models, and by playing with traditional gender roles in the shows. This earned him both criticism and enormous popularity.[5] The "granny grey" hair colour trend is attributed to Gaultier, whose autumn/winter 2011 show featured models in grey beehives. In the spring of 2015, his catwalk show at Paris Fashion Week featured silver-haired models again, as did the shows of other fashion designers, Chanel and Gareth Pugh. The trend soon took off among celebrities and the general public.[65]

Notable designs

Gallery

Filmography

Year Title Role Notes
1993 Eurotrash Presenter TV series
2001 Absolument fabuleux Le créateur
2016 Absolutely Fabulous: The Movie Himself
2019 Huge in France (episode 7) Himself Netflix TV series

Gaultier designed the wardrobe for many motion pictures, including:[76]

Personal life

Gaultier had always had an interest in fashion. In school, he found himself at odds with his classmates; though he didn't fit in, they nonetheless wanted him to do drawings for them.

At unease with his sexuality, he was reassured when he learnt that some of the iconic fashion designers were also gay or bisexual, as he wanted to work in fashion himself. He met his partner Francis Menuge, who helped him to get established and start running shows. Gaultier and Menuge both learned about AIDS during its advent, and both were tested. Menuge was HIV positive, and both Gaultier and Menuge's parents looked after him until his death from AIDS.

In recent years, Gaultier has focused less on fashion to wear, and more on haute couture and putting on shows. [77]

Notes

  1. ^ His first name is sometimes punctuated with a hyphen as Jean-Paul Gaultier.[1]

References

  1. ^ a b c Price Alford, Holly; Stegemeyer, Anne (25 September 2014). Who's Who in Fashion. London: Bloomsbury Academic. p. 151. ISBN 9781609019693.
  2. ^ Walden, Celia (8 December 2010). "Jean-Paul Gaultier interview". www.telegraph.co.uk. The Telegraph. Archived from the original on 30 May 2015. Retrieved 2015.
  3. ^ Davis, Dominic-Madori (1 February 2020). "Jean-Paul Gaultier is leaving the fashion industry after 50 years. Here's a look back at the legendary designer's career, from dressing Madonna to starting his own haute-couture house". Business Insider. Retrieved 2020.
  4. ^ a b Orlean, Susan (26 September 2011). "Fantasyland". www.newyorker.com. The New Yorker. Retrieved 2015.
  5. ^ a b c d Skovmand, Ida (9 June 2013). "Ränderna går aldrig ur Jean Paul Gaultier" [Jean Paul Gaultier, the striped never fade]. www.svd.se. Svenska Dagbladet. Retrieved 2015.
  6. ^ "Jean-Paul-Gaultiers-glittering-career " Stuff http://www.stuff.co.nz/business/luxury/10567404/Jean-Paul-Gaultiers-glittering-career
  7. ^ "L'officiel de la mode - n°832 de 1999 - page 1 - Dremiers succès pendant ce temps c té presse". Patrimoine.jalougallery.com. Retrieved 2011.
  8. ^ "Jean Paul Gaultier: Le bon génie de la mode - L'Express". L'Express. France. 14 September 2006. Retrieved 2011.
  9. ^ Histoires de la mode, by Didier Grumbach, published by Regards in 2008
  10. ^ "Lardeur". Thecrowdmagazine.com. Archived from the original on 16 July 2011. Retrieved 2011.
  11. ^ Crowd Magazine. "The Crowd blog". Thecrowdblog.blogspot.com. Retrieved 2011.
  12. ^ "Jean Paul Gaultier en son palais". Le Monde.fr (in French). 3 July 2008. Retrieved 2020.
  13. ^ a b Hyde, Nina (21 October 1984). "Jean-Paul Gaultier". The Washington Post. Retrieved 2020.
  14. ^ "Chanel, Gaultier, Montebourg: La marinière dans tous ses états". 20minutes.fr (in French). Retrieved 2020.
  15. ^ a b Duka, John (27 October 1984). "Skirts for Men? Yes and No". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved 2020.
  16. ^ "1984 - Jean Paul Gaultier, Cone bra corset dress | Fashion History Timeline". fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu. Retrieved 2020.
  17. ^ "Wolford tights, 2001 - 2002". www.powerhousemuseum.com. Powerhouse Museum. Retrieved 2015.
  18. ^ Cox, Caroline. "Gaultier, Jean-Paul". www.fashionencyclopedia.com. Fashion Encyclopedia. Retrieved 2015.
  19. ^ a b Gross, Michael (31 October 1986). "Gaultier: Fashion Designed to Provoke". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved 2020.
  20. ^ a b "Jean Paul Gaultier, le coeur tendre". Le Temps (in French). 7 May 2008. ISSN 1423-3967. Retrieved 2020.
  21. ^ a b c d Rourke, Mary (24 September 1992). "Fashion's Wild Man Hits L.A. : Designer: Jean Paul Gaultier's star-studded AIDS benefit tonight is already pegged as a madcap glitz-o-rama. But is it also a sign that he is, dare we say, growing up?". Los Angeles Times. Retrieved 2020.
  22. ^ "Fashion Museum - 1980-1989". Fashionmuseum.co.uk. Archived from the original on 10 August 2014. Retrieved 2014.
  23. ^ Mondino, Jean-Baptiste, Jean-Paul Gaultier: How to Do That (Short, Music), Jean-Paul Gaultier, retrieved 2020
  24. ^ "Quand Jean Paul Gaultier relookait son amie Yvette Horner". Le HuffPost (in French). 12 June 2018. Retrieved 2020.
  25. ^ Hess, Liam. "The Story Behind Madonna's Iconic Jean Paul Gaultier Cone Bra". Vogue. Retrieved 2020.
  26. ^ Cole, Shaun (2002). "Gaultier, Jean-Paul". glbtq.com. Archived from the original on 12 November 2007. Retrieved 2007.
  27. ^ PENICAUT, Nicole (9 July 1999). "Jean-Paul Gaultier dans les jupons d'Hermès.Le groupe de luxe prend 35% du capital du couturier". Libération.fr (in French). Retrieved 2020.
  28. ^ Menkes, Suzy; Tribune, International Herald (9 July 1999). "Gaultier, a Fashion Original, Links Up with Hermes". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved 2020.
  29. ^ a b "Jean-Paul Gaultier accélère l'ouverture de boutiques à l'étranger". Les Echos (in French). 27 November 2007. Retrieved 2020.
  30. ^ a b Odell, Amy. "Breaking: Jean Paul Gaultier to Leave Hermès - The Cut". Nymag.com. Retrieved 2011.
  31. ^ Odell, Amy (21 August 2009). "Jean Paul Gaultier to Leave Hermès?". nymag.com/thecut/. New York magazine. Retrieved 2015.
  32. ^ "Special Exhibitions: Bravehearts: Men in Skirts". Metropolitan Museum of Art. Retrieved 2014.
  33. ^ Stevens, Mark (17 November 2003). "Dress Rehearsal". New York Magazine. Retrieved 2014.
  34. ^ (in French) Maisonapart.com [1]
  35. ^ FR, FashionNetwork com. "Jean-Paul Gaultier revisite la bouteille Evian". FashionNetwork.com (in French). Retrieved 2020.
  36. ^ "Jean Paul Gaultier Couture Spring 2009". Women's Wear Daily. 28 January 2009.
  37. ^ Reddy, Sameer (29 January 2009). "Klaus! Kylie! Inès! JPG Loves The Eighties". Style.com. Retrieved 2009.
  38. ^ "2011 Exhibits". Montreal Museum of Fine Arts. Retrieved 2014.
  39. ^ "Exhibitions: The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk". Brooklyn Museum of Art. Retrieved 2013.
  40. ^ "On Tour, 2013-14". Montreal Museum of Fine Arts. Retrieved 2014.
  41. ^ Traill-Nash, Glynis (17 October 2014). "Jean Paul Gaultier's world tour stop at NGV 'best ever'". www.theaustralian.com. The Australian. Retrieved 2015.
  42. ^ "Jean Paul Gaultier at the Grand Palais - France". www.eurochannel.com. Eurochannel. Retrieved 2015.
  43. ^ "Jean-Paul Gaultier à Cali Exposhow". www.ambafrance-co.org. Ambassade de France à Bogota. Archived from the original on 30 May 2015. Retrieved 2015.
  44. ^ Smith, Lauren. "Jean Paul Gaultier to close ready to wear label". www.glamourmagazine.co.uk. Glamour. Retrieved 2015.
  45. ^ a b "French fashion designer Jean-Paul Gaultier announces retirement". France 24. 18 January 2020. Retrieved 2020.
  46. ^ "Aow Tou Dou Zat - Jean Paul Gaultier | Songs, Reviews, Credits, Awards". AllMusic. Retrieved 2014.
  47. ^ "Jean Paul Gaultier - Aow Tou Dou Zat". www.discogs.com. Discogs. Retrieved 2015.
  48. ^ Rahab, Kafia (29 April 2008). "Jean-Paul Gaultier animateur à l'Eurovision". melty (in French). Retrieved 2020.
  49. ^ "Anggun echoes the Baku Crystal Hall". 19 May 2012. Eurovision.tv. Retrieved 2012.
  50. ^ "Jean Paul Gaultier Explains the Eurovision Song Contest". The Cut. Retrieved 2020.
  51. ^ "The Fashion World Of Jean Paul Gaultier". www.chuangyilife.com. Chuangyilife.com. Retrieved 2015.
  52. ^ "The Jury of the 65th Festival de Cannes". festival-cannes.com. Cannes Film Festival. Archived from the original on 24 May 2012. Retrieved 2012.
  53. ^ "Jean-Paul Gaultier to sit on Cannes competition jury along with Nanni Moretti and others". Screen Comment. 25 April 2012. Retrieved 2014.
  54. ^ "Jean Paul Gaultier Perfumes And Colognes". Fragrantica. Retrieved 2020.
  55. ^ "The Shiseido group started negotiation with Puig to sell IP rights of Jean Paul Gaultier regarding fragrance products" (PDF). Shiseido. Retrieved 2020.
  56. ^ Noor, Hibah (9 February 2015). "Puig and Shiseido to terminate Jean Paul Gaultier fragrance license". DutyFree Magazine. Retrieved 2020.
  57. ^ Rozario, Kevin (5 January 2016). "Puig takes on JPG scents and targets EUR2bn". TRBusiness. Retrieved 2020.
  58. ^ Pawson, Helen (26 June 2017). "Notes on a Scandal: Puig unveils new Jean Paul Gaultier feminine fragrance". The Moodie Davitt Report. Retrieved 2020.
  59. ^ Verb eke, Alain (2013). International Business Strategy (2 ed.). Cambridge, England: Cambridge University Press. p. 127. ISBN 978-1107355279.
  60. ^ "Perfume Jean Paul Gaultier Classique". Jean Paul Gaultier. Retrieved 2020.
  61. ^ "Les Males range". Jean Paul Gaultier. Retrieved 2020.
  62. ^ "Scandal range". Jean Paul Gaultier. Retrieved 2020.
  63. ^ Reuters. "Jean-Paul Gaultier exhibit in Paris showcases designer's avant-garde creations, inspirations". www.nydailynews.com. NY Daily News. Retrieved 2015.
  64. ^ "Les cinq univers de Jean Paul Gaultier". La Presse (in French). 16 November 2010. Retrieved 2020.
  65. ^ "#GrannyHair: Why is everyone dyeing their hair grey?". Retrieved 2016.
  66. ^ "Jean Paul Gaultier retrospective". www.elle.com. Elle. Retrieved 2015.
  67. ^ [2] Archived 30 September 2007 at the Wayback Machine
  68. ^ "For The Record: Quick News On Marilyn Manson And Jean Paul Gaultier, Bone Crusher, Cam'ron, Pearl Jam, Jimi Hendrix & More". MTV. 28 April 2003. Retrieved 2007.
  69. ^ Goncalves, Julien (1 April 2015). "Exposition Jean-Paul Gaultier : Madonna et Mylène Farmer à l'honneur". www.chartsinfrance.net. Chartsinfrance.net. Retrieved 2015.
  70. ^ "Marion Cotillard in Jean Paul Gaultier - 10 Best Oscar Dresses". InStyle. Retrieved 2014.
  71. ^ "Marion Cotillard's Oscar Dress, From Runway to Red Carpet". fabsugar.com. 26 February 2008. Retrieved 2014.
  72. ^ a b c d "Jean-Paul Gaultier, from the sidewalk to the catwalk".
  73. ^ "Jean-Paul Gaultier's greatest celebrity moments". Wonderland.
  74. ^ Rapp, Linda. "Cheung, Leslie (1956-2003)". www.glbtq.com. glbtq.com. Archived from the original on 28 May 2014. Retrieved 2015.
  75. ^ "Nik Thakkar for Jean Paul Gaultier". Wonderland.
  76. ^ "Metropolis". www.ngv.vic.gov.au. National Gallery of Victoria. Archived from the original on 30 May 2015. Retrieved 2015.
  77. ^ Jean Paul Gaultier: Freak and Chic (2018) Dircetor Yann L'Hénoret

External links


  This article uses material from the Wikipedia page available here. It is released under the Creative Commons Attribution-Share-Alike License 3.0.

Jean_Paul_Gaultier
 



 



 
Music Scenes